The Vollrath Mirage Pro 59500P (The Ultimate Induction Cooker)

The Vollrath Mirage Pro 5955P is better than most other portable induction cooktops on the market. But is it worth the higher price? 

What sets it apart? What makes it so much better than other induction cooktops (even some that cost hundreds more)?

Read on to find out the pros and cons of this amazing portable induction burner.

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For the price, the 9600LS is a great induction cooker. With 20 power levels and 20 temperature settings, it has more than most cookers in the $100 price range. If you want an inexpensive induction cooktop, the 9600LS is one of the best options. (See our review of Duxtop Induction Cooktops for more info.) 

However, no other portable induction cooktop on the market, and not even many full-sized induction cooktops, can boast 100 power levels or a low heat level of 80F like the Vollrath Mirage Pro. Add to that the excellent build quality, large coil, and manual control dial, and you can start to see what makes the Mirage Pro such an excellent product.

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This section provides a quick lesson on how induction works. You can skip to the next section if you don't want to read basic information on induction cooking.

How Does Induction Cooking Work?

This 30 second video from Vollrath explains the induction concept:

What Is Heat Pulsing and How Does It Work?

Induction burners control heat by pulsing, or turning the heat on and off, on and off, on and off at different rates until the set point is reached. (Actually, they're not turning heat on and off, they're turning a magnet on and off, with the end result being heat.)

You don't have to understand all the technology behind heat pulsing, but you do have to know that this is how induction works, because:

  The ability to pulse heat well is what sets an expensive induction cooker apart from an inexpensive one.

Inexpensive induction cookers pulse full blast or off, full blast or off. So they'll run at their full wattage until they reach the set point, then they shut off (0 watts). When the temperature falls below a certain level, they switch on full blast again to achieve the setting. This usually results in overshooting the set point again, shutting off to cool down, and so on until they hit the setting. Then they shut off, and the cycle continues.

More expensive portable induction cookers (and full-sized induction cooktops) have smarter electronics. They can blast heat just as quickly (probably more quickly), but when they get close to the set point, they can lower the rate of pulsing and adjust the wattage level rather than just shut off and switch back on again when the temp goes too high or falls too low.

They still pulse, but they're able to pulse at different rates and different power levels in order to maintain temperature equilibrium.

This is why with cheaper units, you get a lot of scorching of food and the inability to hold a simmer--the full blast/off, full blast/off cycle makes it almost impossible to hold a precise cooking temperature without wild fluctuation, especially at low temperatures. 

So, if you simply want an induction cooker that gets very hot very fast and you don't care about precision, any cheap one will do the job. 

On the other hand, if you want something that can hold a constant temperature without scorching, particularly a low temperature, you're going to have to spend a little more. For temperature precision, the Vollrath Mirage Pro 59500P is one of your best bets. 

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Portable Induction Cooktop Advantages and Disadvantages

Portable induction cooktops have a number of advantages:

• Induction cooking is more efficient than conventional electric, and much more efficient than gas cooking. Most of the heat goes into the pan, with very little ambient heat lost to the atmosphere. This can result in lower energy bills (although honestly, the difference may be too small to notice), a cooler kitchen, and a cooler cooktop.
• Speed. Induction heats faster than gas and much faster than electric. An average induction burner can bring a cup of water to a boil in about 90 seconds. Speed isn't always what you want in the kitchen, but when you do (pasta water, for example), nothing does it better than induction. 
• Responsiveness. Induction cooktops react instantaneously to changes in temperature settings. They are so quick, in fact, that many people find there's a bit of a learning curve in using induction. You don't need to preheat pans, for example. And never, ever walk away from a hot pan until you're familiar with the settings, because you're almost sure to burn whatever you're cooking. 
• Safety. Induction cooktops don't get as hot as other cooktops so they are inherently safer than gas or electric cooktops. They also have several safety features that add to this inherent safety. They won't turn on without an induction-compatible pan on them, and they shut off automatically after a pan is removed (times for this vary from a few seconds up to a minute--the minute delay is a great feature found on more expensive models). 
• Portability: PICs are lightweight enough that you can use them anywhere--out on your deck on a hot day, on a buffet line if you're doing a Sunday brunch; a dorm room; you can even take them camping. They are an excellent extra burner whenever and wherever you need one.
• Easy cleaning. Because the induction cooktop itself barely gets hot, they are easy to clean. Food won't cook onto the surface, and you can just wipe a burner off after cooking. You can also put newspaper or paper towels down underneath the pan to catch splatters--because the unit works with magnetism, the paper won't burn. Here's a short video demonstrating cooking with a paper towel:
  
  

Portable induction cooktops also have some disadvantages, including:

• It can be tricky to find accurate information on them, so it can be hard to know that you're buying one you'll be happy with. (Check out our article on How to Buy a Portable Induction Cooktop.) Specs given on Amazon and even on manufacturer sites can be sketchy. And how do you figure out the difference between a $50 PIC, a $150 PIC, and a $750 PIC (or, for that matter, a $900 PIC)? If you don't understand all the terminology, it can be hard--and the bestsellers on Amazon aren't necessarily the best way to go, especially if you're looking for precision, durability, and longevity. 
• Low-cost induction cooktops tend to have poor temperature control, especially at low temps. They get very hot very fast, but because of how heating is controlled (with the on-off pulsing described above), they do poorly at lower temps. This means that it can be difficult, and in some cases impossible, to hold a constant simmer. (This is not the case with the Mirage Pro, and one of the key features that sets it apart from less expensive induction cookers on the market.) 
• If you want a good quality portable burner, the initial cost is going to be fairly high--the Mirage Pro 59500P isn't cheap, with the current price at around $750 (though we've seen it as low as $450). But for that price, you get a great package: durability, precision, longevity, and ease of use.
• You need induction-compatible cookware. (See our induction cookware guide for more info.) Cast iron works and most newer stainless clad cookware works. Aluminum, copper, and non-magnetic stainless are not compatible with induction cooktops. (Although clad cookware with layers of copper and/or aluminum will work if it has an induction-compatible stainless exterior.)
  
  If you're not sure whether or not your cookware will work with induction, test the bottom with a magnet: if it sticks, then the cookware works with induction. (And the stronger the stick, the better the cookware will work with your PIC.)
• If you buy a commercial grade PIC like the Mirage Pro, you may not be able to get a factory warranty with it. Many makers, including Vollrath, won't honor a warranty for home use. You can get around this by buying the buyer protection from the dealer (such as Amazon). Also, be sure to use a dedicated circuit so as not to accidentally damage the unit.

Check out Induction Cooktop Pros and Cons for a more detailed discussion about the good and the bad of induction cooking.

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Can Induction Cooking Be Dangerous?

As far as safety in the kitchen, induction is hard to beat; in fact it's the safest cooking technology known to man. But there are a few other areas of concern: 1) Pacemakers, and 2) Electromagnetic radiation.

Pacemakers

Some pacemakers can be affected by the magnetic operation of an induction cooktop. This isn't because induction cooking is dangerous; it just has to do with the frequencies of the pacemaker and the cooktop.

Most pacemakers are NOT affected by induction, and of those that are, the pacemaker typically has to be in extremely close proximity to an operating burner to be affected.

Nevertheless, if this is a concern for you, consult with your cardiologist before purchasing an induction burner. It is always better to be safe than to be sorry.

Electromagnetic radiation (EMFs) is a more complicated subject. And while there are a lot of differing opinions about the safety of electromagnetic waves in general (and induction in particular), the scientific consensus is that non-ionizing electromagnetic radiation is safe. In fact, using your induction stove is safer than being out in the sun without sunscreen. This is because the sun's radiation causes skin cancer, while the induction cooktop's radiation does not.

For a detailed discussion on this topic, see Is Induction Cooking Safe?

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What Features Should I Look for in a Portable Induction Cooktop?

Here are what we consider the most important features of a portable induction cooktop (PIC): 

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Features of the Vollrath Mirage Pro 59500P Induction Cooktop

The Mirage Pro has all the best of the features in the table above, plus some great extras.

These are the features listed on the Vollrath website:

• G4 Engine (from the Vollrath website: Mirage® Pro induction ranges feature the G4 Engine, using four IGBTs so the workload is shared across four parallel switches. This increases the efficiency, control and longevity of the Mirage® Pro induction range.)
• Temperature Mode: Settings of 80F-400F (27C-204C), settable in 10-degree increments
• Power Mode: Power level Settings 1-100 with approximate temperature of 80F to 400F (at highest power setting, will get up to 525F)
• Fahrenheit/Celsius display option.
• Knob control--fast and easy to change settings
• Digital readout and troubleshooting display
• Stainless housing with aluminum underside
• Green LED display
• Setting memory: remembers the last setting used when powered on
• Fully framed ceramic top for durability
• Factory bench tested for ultimate quality control
• "Hot" warning display for safety
• 6' (183 cm) cord and plug
• 2 year warranty (for commercial use only).

But wait! There's more:

• Sophisticated heat control: The Mirage Pro has sophisticated controls that use split-second pulsing as low as 50 watts (unlike the all-or-nothing, 1800W/0W pulsing of less expensive PICs). It also goes as low as 80F. So if you plan to use your portable induction burner for delicate kitchen jobs like melting chocolate (which burns above 105F) or cooking eggs, this is an important feature. It also makes this cooker useful for simmering stock and possibly as a sous vide cooker because it can hold a steady temperature better than just about any other PIC on the market (and is hands down the best in its price range).
• Full Power to Any Size Pan: Another unique capability of the Mirage Pro is its capability to use full (or almost full) power to any pan size. Most portable induction burners use less wattage with small pans, even if you set them to full power, which means slower heating times. But the Mirage Pro uses a full wattage level for any pan size.

You're not going to find these last two points on Amazon or even on the Vollrath website unless you really dig. Why aren't these excellent features highlighted? You'd think Vollrath would shout them from the rooftops, because they make the Mirage Pro 59500P better than other portable induction cooktops, not just a little but a lot.

Maybe Vollrath assumes people aren't savvy enough to understand how cool these features are. Or maybe they think 100 settings is enough to get people's attention. 

In any case, the Mirage Pro is pretty much in a class by itself.

CHECK OUT THE MIRAGE PRO ON AMAZON NOW

CHECK OUT THE MIRAGE PRO AT WEBSTAURANTSTORE.COM

The Control Dial makes the Mirage Pro easy to use. It's a manual control that changes settings almost too fast. If you're in Power mode, it zooms from 1 (lowest) to 100 (highest). If you're in Temperature mode, it goes from 80F up to 400F in 10-degree increments.

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About Temperature Control

With all this emphasis on low-end temperature control, it's probably important to talk about it in a little bit more detail. 

First of all, when and why do you need good temperature control? The best example is when you want to hold something at a simmer. If you set the power level to a low setting, the cooker will continue to get hotter, just at a slower rate than if it were at a higher setting. So if you want to keep a pot at a low simmer, setting the unit between 140-200F will do a better job than if you set it to a low wattage.

One of the problems with using the Temperature settings is that the temperature sensor is buried beneath the glass surface of the unit. Add to this the fact that the pan, not the burner, gets hot, and you see that the sensor has to read through a few layers. By the time the set point temp gets down to the sensor, the burner has already gotten too hot. 

On cheap PICs, this adds to the overshoot/undershoot problem: the sensor reads the temperature and turns the pulsing off. Then, by the time the sensor figures out it's cooled down way too much, it turns the pulsing back on. The result is an uneven heating cycle that produces a full boil, then no boil in turn rather than true simmering. 

We've tested the Mirage Pro at how well it holds a temperature setting. And it really does hold a temperature well without a lot of fluctuation. However, because it has the same sensor issue, it does tend to overshoot a temperature setting. Yet because it has more sophisticated electronics, the overshoot is limited to about ten degrees, and the undershoot is even less.