Imarku Knives: Are They Any Good? A Detailed Review

Imarku knives are an affordable kitchen knife brand rapidly gaining a following in the US. They offer several lines of knives and knife sets, most of which have a combination of German and Japanese features. We tested several Imarku knives and researched the brand for this review. Are Imarku knives the right choice for you? Find out here.

Imarku Knives at a Glance

We tested five Imarku chef's knives for this review, although Imarku makes several lines of knives and knife sets. 

We test chef knives because they're the most common and versatile knife, and they give us a good feel for an entire line. "Chef" includes standard German chef knives, gyutos (Japanese chef knives), santokus, and occasionally other knives such as cleavers, debas, and nakiris. All the Imarku chef knives we tested have characteristics of German and Japanese knives. 

Because Imarku doesn't categorize their knives by line on Amazon or their own website, so list the knives we tested in order from least expensive to most expensive. Prices given are approximate and may change, but the price point itself is likely to remain constant.

How We Test

NOTE: If you don't understand all the terms, read the section below on How to Choose a Knife to find out more.

We first look at a knife's overall fit and finish: Is it forged or stamped, does it have a full tang, is the spine polished, are there any rough spots, does it have good balance, and so on. Then we weigh the knife--weight is an important indication of how the knife will handle--and measure spine thickness at the handle with a caliper: the thicker the spine, the heavier, more durable, and less flexible the blade. This can be good or bad depending on what you're looking for, but it's good information to have.

Finally, we test sharpness with the Bess C sharpness tester. "BESS" stands for Brubacher Edge Sharpness Scale. It tests the amount of pressure, in grams, required to break a thin filament. The lower the number, the sharper the knife.

The sharpness scale:

The BESS C tester can be subjective, based on factors like how fast you push the knife down and how the knife is positioned for testing, so it is meant only as a guide. We test three times and take the average to get the most accurate number possible. It's not perfect, but we like it better than slicing through a piece of paper as an initial peek into a knife's out-of-box sharpness.  

Last but far from least, we put the knife to work in the kitchen, with several testers using the knife over a period of several weeks or months. We take note of how the knife feels in your hand, how well it holds an edge, how it works on different foods, how easily it sharpens, and more. 

About the Company

Imarku was founded in 2008 by Mark Liu as a kitchenware products company. They have manufacturing facilities in China and Japan (we suspect mostly China), a distribution center in China, and warehouses in Germany and the United States. Imarku's legal operating name is Bolton Tech, and they have a main office in Pomona, California. Linkedin says the company has 201-500 employees.

"iMarku" is a combination of the owner's first name, plus the letters "I" and "U." The company makes kitchen cutlery, as well as cookware and one rolling knife sharpener, with more products being introduced all the time. Most of the products are aimed at the "affordable" market, but there are also a few more expensive knives. 

Imarku is similar to Dalstrong, another Chinese company, without the over-the-top marketing, and most Imarku knives are priced more affordably. 

You can read more about Imarku on the About Us page of their website.

About Imarku Branding

Imarku branding is interesting enough to have its own section in this review. This is true for several reasons.

First, Imarku has poor transparency. In many cases they neglect to share important info, such as the type of steel (there are dozens of "high carbon stainless steels" so this doesn't tell us much); details about the knife's construction (full tang? forged or stamped?); the actual country of origin; and other important facts. This information is sometimes given, but not always (as it should be).

Then, some "facts" Imarku gives about their knives make no sense. Imarku makes claims like "an initial sharpness value of 150mm" and "3 times sharper than ordinary kitchen knives," among many others. But as far as we can tell (and we really tried), these terms are meaningless: 150mm of what? And what is an "ordinary" kitchen knife? We can probably blame a lot of this on sloppy translation from Chinese to English, or maybe trying to dazzle buyers with jargon hoping they'll assume they just don't understand the technicalities of the knife industry. 

There are also several typos, misspellings, and poorly constructed sentences, all of which is common with Chinese products sold in the American market.

The upshot is that if you've been confused by any Imarku marketing literature, you are not alone. Some of it is pure gibberish.

We also think that most, if not all, Imarku knives are made in China, despite claims to the contrary (Imarku says most of their knives are made in Japan). It's common for Chinese parts to be shipped to other countries for assembly so makers can say their products weren't made in China. This is especially true with knives because Japanese knives have an excellent reputation, while Chinese knives are struggling to be seen as actual competitors (and there are valid reasons for this). 

None of this means Imarku makes poor quality products. It just means that it's not always easy to know what you're getting. Overall we liked the Imarku knives we tested, but we still believe that buyers should do their due diligence before investing in this brand, and we recommend sticking to the cheaper knives (don't spend more than about $50 on an Imarku knife). 

Finally, about the user reviews: Amazon reviews are stellar, with nearly all 4- and 5-star reviews and an extremely low percentage of bad reviews. Ratings this good are almost unheard of, and frankly, Imarku does not inspire us as a brand that deserves such high regard. So it's possible that the reviews have been manipulated. This is just speculation, and there is no way to know for sure. But we do think it still happens, despite's Amazon's attempts to crack down on this practice.

Most of the (few) bad reviews are about poor customer service, so we recommend that if you buy an Imarku knife, buy through Amazon and make sure free returns are an option, as that will be your best bet to get a full refund if you don't like the knife.   

Imarku Steel

Steel matters: understanding the steel of a knife blade will help you understand the quality level and craftsmanship of a knife. There are other factors, such as how the knife is made (stamped or forged) and heat treated (which strengthens the steel), but the steel itself is a good place to start. 

Imarku may use other steels, but these are the steels on the knives we tested.

5Cr15MoV: This steel is used in the deba knife we tested and may be the steel used where the type of steel is not specified (e.g., "high carbon Japanese steel" or "high carbon German steel"). It is an inexpensive Chinese steel, typically used in budget-friendly knives, and considered equivalent to the German X50CrMoV15 steel seen in brands like Wusthof and Zwilling. You may also see this steel called 420HC, 1.4116, or 440A.

5Cr15MoV steel has good corrosion resistance, is easy to harden with heat treatment, and is typically around 54-56 HRC, considered by most steel nerds to be the bare minimum of acceptable hardness for a kitchen knife. This steel is also known for being easy to sharpen. It contains about 0.15% carbon, which makes it one of the lowest carbon contents for high carbon steels, and also why it's so soft.

Opinions vary about the quality of this steel. While roughly equivalent to X50CrMoV15, some experts believe that because it's cheaper, it's an inferior steel, and some knife nerds won't even consider buying a knife made with it. In general, Chinese steels are cheaper than other steels, and this may at least partly be because the quality control isn't as good: it's possible that the levels of molybdenum and vanadium vary more in the Chinese steels than in their German equivalents. But if you're just looking for an affordable knife for basic kitchen use, 5Cr15MoV steel is perfectly fine. 

7Cr17MoV: This steel is seen in the $50 chef knife and the $130 chef knife we review here (but the $130 knife has a powdered steel cutting edge). It is considered by most experts to be the Chinese equivalent of Japanese SUS440A steel and American 440A steel, but with more vanadium, which improves hardness. It contains about 0.7% carbon, so is considerably harder than 5Cr15MoV steel (above). According to this website, 7Cr17MoV is "a Chinese-made stainless steel with added molybdenum and vanadium for improved hardness and wear resistance. Commonly used in budget-friendly knives."

7Cr17MoV can be hardened to 56-58 HRC, which is the hardness of a good quality German knife. It has better corrosion resistance than 5Cr15MoV because of its higher chromium content. It's harder than 5Cr15MoV, so has superior edge retention, but is also more brittle (because of the higher carbon content). 

As with 5Cr15MoV, there's a wide range of opinions on 7Cr17MoV. This site says it shouldn't be hardened to more than about 58 HRC because it contains a high percentage sulfur, which can cause harder blades to chip more easily. It also says you see 7Cr17MoV only on very cheap knives. However, it also claims a higher hardness rating for this steel of 60-63HRC, where most other sites say the hardness is 56-58 HRC (and which is the Imarku hardness). 

Overall, this is an inexpensive Chinese steel with excellent corrosion resistance and decent edge retention, but is not as high quality as equivalent steels because of the higher sulfur content and slightly lower carbon content. 

Damascus Steel: Damascus steel is a combination of two or more steels, usually a hard steel and a soft steel, layered together and hammered into beautiful patterns, then etched with acid, which gives the steels different colors, enhancing the beauty of the pattern. Centuries ago, this layering and hammering produced a superior steel, but today the effect is mostly for decoration. 

Imarku claims to use Damascus steel on the two most expensive knives we tested, but they don't have any Damascus patterns, so we're not sure what this refers to. The Tsuchime (dimpled) finish on the $80 Imarku knife is not a type of Damascus, and the $130 knife has no Damascus traits at all. However, these knives do have a different cutting edge steel, so maybe they're calling the protective steel wrap "Damascus" because Damascus steel is typically wrapped around a harder cutting edge to protect it. We're not sure, but it doesn't matter all that much because the Damascus steel (or lack thereof) isn't part of the cutting edge.

If you want to learn more, see our article What Is Damascus Steel?

High Carbon German Steel: This is a generic term and therefore basically meaningless. Most German knife steel is X50CrMoV15, but Imarku is almost certainly using a Chinese equivalent when they don't specify. Where Imarku uses this generic term, it's impossible to know the exact composition of the blade.

High Carbon Japanese Steel: As with high carbon German steel, this is a generic term that tells you nothing about the steel composition, but is probably the Chinese equivalent of SUS440A, which is considered budget Japanese steel. 

Powdered Steel: We see powdered steel on the two most expensive Imarku knives we tested. Powdered steel is created with a process called powder metallurgy (PM), where metal powder is mixed with other elements, heated, and compressed to form solid steel. Powdered steel has a much finer grain structure than regular ("ingot") steel. This results in greater hardness, better edge retention, and better corrosion resistance. Powdered steel is considered a Japanese innovation and includes SG2/R2 and ZDP-189 (made by Takefu Steel), CPM-S30V (made by CPM) and HAP40 (made by Hitachi). 

There are different price and quality levels of powdered steel, and Imarku does not disclose the type of powdered steel they use, so we assume it's one of the less expensive ones. But even an inexpensive powdered steel improves a blade's hardness and edge retention because of the finer grain structure.

SUS440A: This is a budget Japanese steel, equivalent to American 440A and Chinese 7Cr17MoV (see above). This steel is about 0.7% carbon, which makes it a moderately hard steel, with a rating of 55-58HRC. It's used on the $50 Imarku chef knife. SUS440A is typically seen on budget knives. It has good corrosion resistance, moderately high hardness, and moderately easy machinability/sharpening. When properly heat treated, SUS440A has good edge retention.

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Imarku Handles

All Imarku knives we tested have Japanese handles shapes, either oval or D-shaped. A few others (which we didn't test) are contoured like a German handle. They're both good designs, but they fit in the hand differently. The $130 chef knife we tested has a unique rectangular handle (Imarku calls it a diamond shape), which is also very comfortable. 

All the Imarku knives we tested have pakkawood handles, which is a durable wood/resin composite seen on high-end knives (such as Shun). Since pakkawood isn't really wood, it can be put in a dishwasher (though we recommend hand washing your knives to keep them in the best shape possible).

Some of the large Imarku sets have soft plastic handles, and some have stainless steel handles. We did not test any of these.

Overall, Imarku handles are some of the favorites we've ever tested, and are comfortable no matter how big (or small) your hands are.

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About the Imarku Sets

See Imarku knife sets on Amazon

In general, we recommend buying individual knives or sets of no more than 3-5 knives. We do not recommend any of the large Imarku sets at any price point, but especially the super cheap sets (i.e., about $50 for a set of 14-16 knives--this is about $3 per knife!). Even if you spend $100-$150 on a big set, the knives are probably not going to be great quality.

If you want steak knives, buy them separately rather than getting a huge, 14-16 piece set just for the steak knives.

Also, though it's unfair to make a sweeping statement about all Imarku sets without testing them, the sets seem to be cheaper than the knives sold individually or in sets of 2-3, and not as well made. Most are stamped rather than forged, and information about them is lacking so it's hard to know what you're getting. 

Imarku sells a few small sets, like this, usually without a block, that are better quality than the large sets. They also sell sets of steak knives that are a pretty good deal (but note that they all seem to be serrated, which you may or may not prefer for cutting steak).

What's "large"? Any set with more than 5 knives, or that contains knives you aren't familiar with or won't use.

And please remember to buy a honing steel too: this an essential tool for keeping your knives in the best shape possible and minimizing sharpening. We prefer ceramic, but a steel one is probably fine for mid-range knives with fairly soft steel--but you should use a ceramic steel on any blade with a hardness rating higher than 60 HRC.

For more on choosing kitchen knives, see this section below.

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Pros and Cons of Imarku Knives

Here's a pro/con list of Imarku knives:

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Sharpening Imarku Knives

Imarku knives can be sharpened like any other kitchen knives. Imarku recommends a whetstone on their site, but they also sell a rolling knife sharpener that works at 4 different angles (12-, 13-, 15-, and 20-degrees, which covers most Imarku blades), plus a 400 grit and a 1000 grit side for sharpening and polishing. We love rolling knife sharpeners because they do a better job than pull-throughs, allow you to use different angles, are safe and easy to use, and have almost no learning curve, unlike whetstones. But the Imarku rolling sharpener is about $200, twice as much as some other rolling sharpeners that we recommend. To learn more, see our review of rolling knife sharpeners. 

If you're good with a whetstone or are willing to invest the time to become good, then it's a good option for Imarku knives, too. But because these knives have so many different cutting angles, pull-through sharpeners aren't the best choice, unless you know you've got the right one with the right cutting angle for your knife. 

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Review: Imarku 8-Inch Gyuto Chef Knife 

About $40 (prices can vary but this is the cheapest Imarku chef knife we found)

See Imarku gyuto on Amazon

Features

What We Like

This Imarku chef's knife came in a pretty protective box and included padding, instructions, and protective caps on the tip and heel. It makes a nice presentation if given as a gift.

The blade was quite sharp out of the box--250g on the Bess C scale equates to new high end cutlery, which means the sharpness is equivalent to much more expensive knives when new.

The blade kept its sharpness, even without honing, for about the first week of use. After that, a few quick passes on a knife steel (we used a ceramic one) kept the knife plenty sharp for every job we used it for, including cutting onions, garlic, tomatoes, herbs, several meats and cheeses, apples, grapefruit, and more. With a hardness rating of about 57 HRC, the steel is hard enough to stay sharp for awhile, yet soft enough to use for everything without worries of chipping, as well as ease of sharpening. It cut through chicken bones and hard winter squash with no problems at all. The wide cutting angle is another feature that makes this knife a real workhorse. 

At 6.6 ounces, the knife is fairly light, even though the blade looks and feels quite durable. Interestingly, this weight differs considerably from the weight listed on Amazon, which is almost 3 ounces more--perhaps this includes the packaging.

The blade height is excellent, at 1.7 inches. This leaves plenty of room for knuckle clearance, so even if you have big hands, your knuckles shouldn't scrape the cutting board. 

The pakkawood handle is attractive, and the size and shape are excellent: testers with small hands and large hands alike found it comfortable to hold. Pakkawood is a durable wood/synthetic composite usually seen on much more expensive brands (many Shun knives have a pakkawood handle). It's surprising to see pakkawood on a $40 knife. 

Overall, this knife is a good buy, and we would probably choose it over a Victorinox or Mercer which are at a similar price point, mostly because it's prettier. We may change our minds as we use the knife over the next few years, but today, this is what we think.

What We Don't Like

Even though the knife weighs just 6.6 ounces, the wide cutting angle (20 degrees each side) and ample handle makes it feel kind of bulky, almost like a small cleaver. It also has poor balance, with more weight in the handle than the blade, but this is a minor issue unless you're going to be using the knife for hours on end (a poorly balanced knife can cause hand fatigue). 

The blade is sharp, but it didn't cut as smoothly as we'd like, struggling to get through onions and carrots. This is probably because of the wide cutting angle. If you sharpened the blade down to a 15 degree cutting angle, or maybe even a little thinner, it would probably handle much better, and the soft steel would still be durable enough to resist chipping. 

The fit and finish is mediocre, which is exactly what we expect on a knife at this price point. The spine is not polished, so it cuts into your hand a bit if you use a pinch grip (again, not a huge issue unless you plan to use the knife for hours on end). The seams where the handle meets the blade and the end cap are rough and uneven, whereas more expensive knives are completely smooth at these transition points.

We're not sure if the heel counts as poor fit and finish or if it is meant to be sharp, but the heel of the blade is quite sharp, and easy to poke yourself with if you're not careful. This isn't uncommon on knives with partial bolsters (we have the same complaint about Global chef knives, which cost more than twice this knife), so it's a minor complaint. But it's something you have to be careful about if you're used to knives with full bolsters.

And this is nitpicky, too, but Imarku has mixed so many German and Japanese features that it's hard to know what this knife is really designed for. They call it a gyuto, but it's got much softer steel than most gyutos (which makes it a more durable, versatile blade, so this isn't necessarily a drawback, depending on what you're looking for), as well as the very wide cutting angle and German shaped handle. This is not a gyuto, and calling it one is confusing for buyers. 

Finally, we also wish Imarku was more transparent: is the knife made in China or Japan? (Our guess is China.) And what type of steel is the blade??? 

Recommendation

The Imarku chef's knife made of high carbon stainless steel (the specific kind is not given) is a good competitor in this price range. The fit and finish isn't great, with a square (unpolished) spine, sharp heel, and protruding edges where blade meets handle. At 56-58 HRC, the knife is made with durable steel, more like a German blade than a Japanese gyuto, which are typically 59 HRC at the least. But it's as good as other knives in this price range (i.e, Victorinox), so if you're on a budget, it's a good choice.

buy imarku gyuto chef's knife:

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Review: Imarku Pro Kitchen 8-inch Gyuto Chef Knife 

About $51

See it on Amazon (SUS440A steel--this is the one we tested)

See same priced knife made of 7Cr17MoV steel

Features

Note: Imarku makes another knife for the same price that's identical in shape and size (link above), but made from 7Cr17MoV steel, which is a high carbon Chinese steel rather than SUS440A Japanese steel of the knife we tested. These steels are considered to be about the same, and both mid-range steels with good corrosion resistance, decent hardness, and easy to sharpen. The Chinese 7Cr17MoV is a little harder because it chromium, but there is very little difference between them. If you accidentally bought one instead of the other, you probably wouldn't notice a difference. In fact, they may be the same knife but with different Amazon pages.

What We Liked

Other than the approximately $10 price difference and listing the actual type of steel this knife is made from, we couldn't tell the difference between this knife and the $40 gyuto we tested above. The blade, handle, weight, fit and finish, and feel in your hand are all pretty much identical, as is the performance. The main differences seems to be that: 

What We Didn't Like

Also same as above: despite its sharpness, the knife felt like it had to work to get through onions, apples, carrots, and other hard-ish foods. Handling felt a little clumsy, again probably due to the wide cutting angle. Fit and finish was the same as the less expensive knife (not great, but what we expect on a $50 knife). When we gave testers these knives without telling them which one was which, none were able to tell the difference. 

As with the $40 knife above, this knife has mixed traits and is not a true gyuto (Japanese chef knife). The soft steel and extremely wide cutting angle are traits of German chef knife. On the other hand, the straighter blade and more gradual curve to the point are more Japanese. The mixed features aren't necessarily a drawback, and a lot of knife makers are blurring the lines between German and Japanese design today. But it's not a true gyuto, so if that's what you're looking for, this is the wrong knife to buy.

Finally, we find it frustrating that Imarku sells two nearly identical knives but with slightly different steels for the same price, and makes almost no effort to differentiate the selling points of each knife. Maybe it doesn't matter, as the steel is very similar and at this price point people probably don't care, but for us, as researchers and testers, it makes it hard to present a clear picture of Imarku's knife lines and what features make them appealing to different buyers. 

All of these knives (the two here and the $40 one reviewed above) would benefit from grinding the cutting angle from 20 degrees down to 15 degrees. A thinner cutting angle would improve handling. 

Recommendation

The $50 Imarku gyuto, in either Japanese or Chinese steel, is a nice knife for the price, but since it's nearly identical to the $40 Imarku gyuto (reviewed above), the less expensive one is probably the better choice.

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Review: Imarku Deba Knife, 7-Inch Blade

About $80

See Imarku 7-inch deba on Amazon

Features

What We Liked

This is not a chef knife, but we wanted to test it, so we did. A deba is too thick and heavy for general use and your hand will get fatigued from the weight.

A deba is a Japanese knife similarly shaped to a gyuto, but with a thicker, heavier blade that's used to cut through bones and other hard foods. It is designed for cutting up fish, including scales, gills, heads, and tails. The single bevel and thin cutting angle allows the chef to make clean, precise slices, while the weight helps to push through harder material like bone and cartilage. Most debas are carbon steel (not high carbon stainless steel).

This knife is extremely thick, heavy, and sharp. We tested it primarily by cutting up fish and chicken. We tried it for a few general purpose tasks like cutting veggies and slicing cheese, but it's so thick and heavy that few people would want to use it for anything beyond its intended purpose.

The 5Cr15MoV steel is the Chinese equivalent of X50CrMoV15 steel used in German brands like Wusthof and Zwilling. This makes it quite a bit softer than the standard carbon steel debas, but also less brittle and more durable. It's corrosion resistant, durable, and affordable.

This photo that shows how thick this deba blade is (yes, that's a sad old grapefruit):

The Imarku deba is on the left, a Wusthof Ikon in the middle, and an Imarku gyuto (reviewed above) on the right. As you can see, the deba is much thicker and heavier than both of the chef's knives. The Western market tends to think of Japanese knives as thinner and lighter than German knives, but as you see here, this isn't always the case.

The knife had better fit and finish than the cheaper Imarku gyutos we tested, and overall it felt like a good quality, well made knife.

The single bevel and D-shaped handle make this a knife for right handed people. Not all debas are single bevel, but this one is, so it isn't suitable for a general purpose knife, even if you don't mind the weight. 

The pakkawood handle is large and comfortable, but the D-shape is clearly meant exclusively for right-handed cooks. The D-shape is quite pronounced--more so than those on Shun knives and some other Japanese brands--but that could be because the knife, including the handle, is so large.

This knife could be a great addition to your collection if you're looking for a heavy duty meat and bone cutter that isn't as bulky as a cleaver. Don't buy it for an all-purpose chef knife.

What We Didn't Like

First of all, this is a very heavy knife, probably the heaviest knife we've ever tested. It's supposed to be: the weight helps you slice through bones, cartilage, gills, and scales. But the weight made this knife tiresome to use even after a short time; for most of our testers, under 10 minutes. 

The single bevel isn't a drawback, but it was new for most of our testers, which made it fun, but not practical for a general purpose knife. Again, buy this knife if you're looking for a heavy duty bone cutter. The pronounced D-shaped handle also made it a poor choice for left-handed users. Many Japanese knife makers make custom single bevel knives for lefties, but Imarku doesn't seem to offer this option. 

The soft steel makes this an extremely durable blade, but even though it's the Chinese version of good quality German steel, it's considered a budget steel, or at best, mid-range. Though extremely sharp, it doesn't hold an edge for very long, so it will require fairly frequent sharpening with regular use. Use a honing steel on it before every use if you want to go as long as possible between sharpening.

Then there's the mash-up of German and Japanese features, as with the other Imarkus we tested. Single bevel knives are rare in the Western market, so we're left wondering why Imarku is even selling such a knife on the American Amazon site (part of why we wanted to test it). The soft steel is definitely a Western option as most Japanese debas are made from carbon steel. So this knife is a bit of an anomaly: a truly Japanese single bevel blade and D-shaped handle, but in a much softer steel that a serious Japanese cook probably wouldn't buy.

It's a decent knife, but who in the American market will buy it? Anyone familiar with debas and what they're made for isn't going to be happy with this knife, and anyone looking for an all-purpose chef knife isn't going to be happy, either. In fact, the Amazon page says this knife is a "frequently returned item." Of course it is.

Recommendation

If you're looking for a heavy, cleaver-type knife you can use for bones and cartilage, especially if you want something less bulky than a cleaver, then this knife is a good choice, if you're right-handed. The single bevel and D-shaped handle make it the wrong choice for lefties. It's too thick and heavy for an all-purpose chef knife (even though it looks like one).

buy imarku 7-inch deba:

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Review: Imarku Damascus 8-Inch Chef Knife

See the Imarku Damascus chef knife on Amazon

About $80

Features

What We Liked

The hammered finish gives this knife a striking appearance, and it was quite sharp out of the box. We used it for over a week before we had to use a steel on it, so it holds an edge well. It cuts smoothly and evenly and did a great job on everything we used it for, including meat, cheese, veggies, fruits, and herbs. 

The powdered steel edge is what gives this knife the high sharpness rating, and it will hold an edge for a long time. The high carbon German steel protects the cutting edge from abuse--but you should still be careful not to use it on hard foods and bone because at 61-63 HRC, the edge could chip.

Tthis knife felt as durable as any good quality German blade, and it worked like one, too: we used it on everything from herbs to chicken bones, and it worked great on all of it.

Balance is good, with the center of gravity where it should be (where the blade meets the handle). This makes the knife great to use, with very little hand fatigue, even though it's on the heavy side.

The belly of this knife is a little more curved than most gyutos, so it handles more like a German chef knife. If you like to use a rock chop, this is a great feature. Once again, Imarku is mashing up German and Japanese traits, but it works here. 

The blade is wide, at about 2.3 inches, so like the other Imarkus we tested, there is no worry of knuckle clearance, even with very large hands. 

The handle is roomy and comfortable (again, like all the Imarku handles we tested). The oval shape is great for righties and lefties alike, and hand size doesn't seem to matter, because everyone found this handle comfortable.

The fit and finish were better than the less expensive Imarkus we tested, with smooth transitions between the blade and the handle. The shape made a pinch grip comfortable. You could probably use this knife for hours without getting tired. 

We didn't notice much difference with food not sticking, but the Tsuchime finish (dimpling) is an attractive feature that makes this knife a real eye-catcher. Some reviewers complain that food can get caught the dimpling, but we didn't have any issues with that, and the knife cleans up easily.

Overall, it's a pretty, practical knife at a decent price.

What We Didn't Like

We wish Imarku disclosed the type of steel in this knife; at about $80, the knife is affordable, but not so affordable that you don't care what the steel is. "High carbon German" is a generic description that leaves us guessing at the blade composition. It's probably 7Cr17MoV, one Chinese equivalent of "real" German steel used in brands like Wusthof (X50CrMoV15--see our Wusthof review for more information). 

Since the cutting edge is powdered steel, the steel used in the rest of the knife is less important (although 5Cr15MoV is less corrosion resistant than 7Cr17MoV), but there are also no details about the powdered steel cutting edge (or "powered" steel, as it's called on the Imarku site). Powdered steels provide a finer grained blade, which holds an edge longer than regular steel. It also makes the high hardness rating (61-63 HRC) possible, as this is very hard to achieve with any German knife steel. These are pluses, but we wish we knew more about the composition. Like all other steels, powdered steels are not created equally. And though this is not a cheap knife, other knives using powdered steel can cost several hundred dollars.

The fit and finish is better than on the cheaper Imarku knives we tested, but not as good as most higher end brands. The spine is polished, which is great because it won't dig into your hand, and the bolster (where the blade meets the handle) is smooth, with the steel protruding just slightly around the handle. The end cap is rougher, but since this doesn't affect grip or usage, it's a minor detail.

At 9 ounces, this knife is a bit heavy. To compare, an 8-inch Miyabi chef knife weighs just a hair over 6 ounces, while a Wusthof Ikon 8-inch chef knife weighs about 9.5 ounces. Thus, the weight is that of a German knife.

This isn't a problem if you're looking for a durable workhorse kitchen knife, but it could be confusing for buyers: they might think they're getting a Japanese style knife because of the Damascus finish, powdered steel cutting edge, high hardness rating, and oval handle (all traits of a Japanese knife). And Imarku markets it as a "lightweight, thin design," also asserting it's a Japanese knife. But despite all this, the knife is much closer in design and performance to a German knife. 

Finally, and this is a small thing since Damascus steel is no more than styling today, anyway, but we have our doubts that this is actually a Damascus steel knife. Neither high carbon German steel nor powdered steel are considered Damascus, so other than the hammered finish--which can be applied to any steel--we don't see any Damascus traits. Imarku could be taking liberties with definitions, and it really doesn't affect the knife's quality or performance, but in our opinion, the description is frustratingly imprecise. 

Recommendation

This is an attractive knife with good edge retention and a comfortable handle. It's closest in design, weight, and performance to a German style chef knife, even though it has several Japanese features and Imarku markets it as a Japanese knife. The fit and finish isn't quite as good as more expensive knives, but performance wise, it can compete with higher end knives. If you're looking for a workhorse, this is a good choice. If you're looking for a light, nimble Japanese knife, this is not it.

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Review: Imarku Professional Japanese Damascus Chef Knife

About $130

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Features

What We Liked

This is a pretty knife, even if lacking a traditional Damascus appearance. The flatter belly, pointed tip, and high hardness rating make this a true Japanese-style knife. Additionally, this reverse tanto or clip point tip on this knife (how the spine is "clipped" at the blade end) adds functionality, as this makes this knife excellent for precision work in tight spaces. This clip point tip actually makes this knife closer in style to a kiritsuke knife, though Imarku makes no mention of this (kiritsuke is just another type of Japanese all-purpose knife, which you can learn more about by clicking on that link).

It is very sharp out of the box, and held its edge well throughout our testing period of about 4 weeks. Even without steeling before use, it could still cut beautifully thin slices of tomatoes, apples, and beef. The flattish blade was excellent for chopping up herbs. The thin cutting angle gave this knife a nimble feel.

The sloped bolster makes this knife more comfortable than a straight bolster, especially when using a pinch grip.

We really liked the unique rectangular handle shape, which we've never seen before. It was surprisingly comfortable. In fact, the durable pakkawood handles on all the Imarku knives we tested were probably our favorite parts of all these knives, but this handle was unique, attractive, and great to hold.

The balance is pretty good, leaning just slightly towards the handle. 

It's high hardness rating makes this knife a poor choice for bones and hard or frozen foods. But that's part of what makes it a traditional Japanese knife. 

What We Didn't Like

As pretty as this knife is, and as great as it cuts, there's a lot to dislike about it. At a price around $130 (originally closer to $300!), we expected perfect fit and finish, which it did not have. The spine is square and unpolished, so it digs into your hand if you use a pinch grip. The bolster isn't bad, but at this price it should be a completely smooth transition from blade to handle, and there is some roughness. The oversized end cap is quite pretty, but it really protrudes above the pakkawood, and because it's so long, you'll feel it against your palm when holding the knife. 

There also doesn't appear to be any Damascus steel on this knife, or in Imarku's description of this knife. It's a 7Cr17MoV blade with a powdered steel cutting edge--which, like the "Damascus" knife reviewed above, is not defined. Powdered steel does provide a finer edge that stays sharp longer, but it would be nice to know exactly which powdered steel it is, especially at this price point. 

8.5 ounces is heavy for a Japanese chef knife. They are usually closer to 6 ounces. Japanese knives tend to be thinner and lighter than this one. So this knife has the weight of a German chef knife, but is designed to be used as a gyuto. Once again, this knife is a mash-up of Japanese and German traits, but this time it doesn't really work.

7Cr17MoV is a mid-grade Chinese steel (some would say it's budget grade). Even though it's roughly equivalent to good German steel, it's less expensive, so this knife is probably overpriced.

Finally, and this is a small thing, but the logo on the blade feels is raised and has a rough finish. This can catch food, making the blade harder to clean, and it also feels like it could rub or scratch off easily. This may not be the case, but a logo that protrudes so blatantly from the blade just feels cheap. The cheaper Imarku knives we tested (above) had smooth logos, so this is probably some fancier technique gone awry. (The Tsuchime finish knife also had the rough protruding logo, but it was less noticeable on the dimpled surface.)

Recommendation

This is an expensive knife for what you get. The mid-grade (maybe budget grade) Chinese steel, the unknown powdered steel, the weight (heavy for a Japanese style knife), and the good-but-not-great fit and finish all make this knife probably not worth the asking price of $130. If you find it on sale, it might be worth getting, but there are better knives at this price point (such as a Global G2).

It does feel like a solid, good quality knife that held its edge well, and we loved the handle, but it's not a knife we'd pay $130 for. 

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How to Choose a Kitchen Knife

We have an entire article devoted to choosing kitchen knives, but here's an overview of what to look for. 

Sets Vs. Individual Knives

Buying a set is a good way to get several knives at a lower price, typically with a storage block, a honing steel, and a set of kitchen shears. But as great as that may sound, sets aren't always a good choice. If they're larger than 3-5 pieces, you may end up with knives you aren't going to use. So it can be better to buy knives individually and get exactly what you want; a lot of serious cooks would prefer, for example, having 2-3 different chef's knives than just one plus different blades they don't frequently use (such as boning knives, utility knives, and paring knives of various sizes, which is what most large sets consist of).

So we recommend either buying your knives individually, or getting a small set of just 3-5 knifes. The best small sets have the basic knives a cook needs--a chef's knife (or santoku, if you prefer), a paring knife, and a bread (serrated) knife. You can buy whatever storage you want (block, magnet, drawer, etc.), and add to your collection as you find knives you want. And a honing steel is a must--preferably a ceramic one.

Think about the knives you want, storage options, and how much you want to spend before you buy.

Fit and Finish

Fit and finish is about the overall quality of a knife. Look for blades that are smooth, preferably with polished spines and no unfinished edges. The handle should be comfortable, with rivets and scales that fit snugly to the blade and don't protrude: you should be able to run your finger over the transitional areas and not feel them. That is, seams where the  bolster, blade, and handle meet should be tight and smooth, with no gaps. Any rivets should mesh with the blade. Nothing should rub against your hand. 

The bolster (if it has one) should feel comfortable in your hand, and this should be true regardless of the price because if it doesn't, the knife will be uncomfortable to use.

Of course, the less expensive the knife, the lower your expectations should be. If you want to spend in the $50 range, don't expect perfectly smooth fit and finish. Such knives may exist, but they're not easy to find.

Basic Design

All knives feel different, and what you like might not be what someone else likes. We recommend trying a lot of knives before you buy. You might discover that you prefer a lighter knife over a heavier knife, a santoku over a chef's knife, a shorter blade to a longer blade, a handle you haven't tried before, etc. 

Chef's knives (including santokus and gyutos) are the most important for most cooks, since they are the most versatile. Try different blade lengths, different blade styles, and different handle styles. 

Here are some important features to think about:

• Blade length: The standard length for a chef's knife blade is 8 inches, but they can range from as short as 4 inches to as long as 12 inches. This is true for both German and Japanese chef knives. The standard length for a santoku is 7 inches. Length is an important consideration because the length determines how good or how unwieldy a knife feels while using it.
• Blade height: A blade should be tall enough (meaning from blade to spine) to have good knuckle clearance so your knuckles don't hit the cutting board on the downstroke. All the Imarku knives we tested had wide blades with exceptional knuckle clearance.
• Belly: The belly of the knife, where the edge curves up to the tip, can be steeply curved (Western chef knife), somewhat flat (gyuto), or completely flat (santoku). If you cut with a standard Western rock chop, a curved belly is a good choice. If you like a push-pull, flattish cut, where you lift the entire knife off the cutting board between cuts, then gyutos and santokus are both better choices (even possibly a nakiri, though that is a less general purpose knife used mostly for vegetables). Since so many Imarku knives (and other brands, too) have a mix of traits, it's a good idea to make sure the belly is the shape you want rather than just going by the description (i.e., "German" knives can have flattish bellies, and "Japanese" knives can have curved bellies).
• Balance: Though balance isn't a big issue for home cooks because they don't use knives for hours on end like a prep cook, it does determine how a knife feels during use. Most users prefer a knife's center of gravity to be at the bolster, where blade meets handle.  Experimenting with different knives will help you figure out what you like. The balance of Imarku knives varies, but most of them tend to be fairly well balanced or slightly handle-heavy.
• Handle: We get into more detail below, but the most important things about a handle are that it's comfortable and that it provides good grip (a safety issue).

Blade Considerations

The blade is arguably what you're paying for when you buy a knife, so there are several features to look at. Here are the ones we think are the most important.

Steel

We discussed Imarku steel already, so this section is a general overview of what to look for in kitchen knives. These are the very basics, as there have been books written about this, but we'll touch on all the most important things.

Three types of steel are used in kitchen knives: stainless steel, high carbon stainless steel, and carbon steel. They can all have dozens of different configurations--some have vanadium, molybdenum, etc.--but the biggest difference among them is the percentage of carbon in the steel. 

Stainless steel is very soft and typically has a carbon content of 0.03-0.1%. It requires frequent sharpening. You see it on very cheap knives, or used as cladding over a harder cutting core. Stainless steel is the bottom end of kitchen cutlery (although it's fine for a protective overlay for a harder cutting core). 

Carbon steel is an carbon-iron alloy without a lot of added elements that stainless steel has. It contains no chromium, so it isn't "stainless," which means it rusts fairly easily. The carbon content in carbon steel knives varies but is usually between 0.6-1.5%. Professional chefs like it because it holds an edge extremely well, but home cooks generally avoid it because it's harder to take care of: if you don't wash and dry a carbon steel knife immediately after use, it will rust (this is less of an issue with pro chefs because of how much they use their knives).

High carbon stainless steel has a 0.6-1.5%, similar to carbon steel. However, high carbon stainless contains chromium, which is what prevents rusting, and can also contain many other elements that increase strength, durability, and hardness. This is, as the name says, stainless steel with a higher percentage of carbon than other stainless steels (such as that used for cookware). 

The vast majority of knives sold to the home cooking market are high carbon stainless steel. There are dozens of different types, but the two main categories are German/Western (including American, French, Swedish, etc.) and Japanese. German steel is softer, usually 56-58. HRC, which makes it very durable, but it requires more frequent sharpening. Japanese steel is harder, with a hardness that ranges from about 59-65 HRC. This isn't a set rule, so you'll see variations, especially now, with so many kitchen knives having a blend of German and Japanese characteristics.

In general, if you can have just one knife, a German steel knife is the best choice for the durability and versatility. Japanese knives are lighter, thinner, and more fun to use, but can chip easily on hard foods and bone.

Chinese steels tend to be less expensive variations on German and Japanese steels, as explained in the Imarku Steel section above. There are many differing opinions on whether Chinese equivalents are as good as German and Japanese steel. The one thing we know for sure is that they tend to cost less.

Forged Vs. Stamped

At one time, forged vs. stamped was the main difference between a high-end knife and a low-end knife. This is no longer the case, but there are still differences to be aware of.

Forged: Forged blades are made from ingots of steel heated under pressure and pounded or pressed into shape. Forged knives have a bolster, the area of thicker steel where the blade meets the handle. The bolster adds weight, improves balance and strength, and protects your fingers from the blade. Bolsters can be full or partial (the parts of a knife diagram above shows a full bolster, while the knife above left shows a partial bolster). Full bolsters are usually seen on German knives, while partial bolsters are seen on all types of knives today as they've become more popular. Japanese knives rarely (if ever) have a full bolster. 

Forged knives tend to be more expensive because the manufacturing process is more expensive. They also tend to have better heat treatment, which results in a stronger blade--if you've ever wondered how two knives made of the same steel can have wide price variations, it's usually due to forged/stamped and heat treatment/no heat treatment. 

All the Imarku knives we tested are forged, but they also make stamped knives that are usually found in the large Imarku sets (which we do not recommend--not just because they're stamped but because they're extremely cheap, low-end knives).

Stamped knives are cut (often marketed as "laser cut") from a sheet of steel. They have a uniform thickness throughout (except for the blade, of course), and have no bolster, or may have a bolster added as a separate piece of steel or handle material to improve balance. 

Stamped knives tend to be lighter than forged knives due to lack of a bolster and often don't have a tang (see next section). They often are not as well balanced. 

Forged knives traditionally were considered the better knives. But because of new steel technology and improved manufacturing methods, many stamped knives today are as good as forged. In the same vein, knives forged knives can be poor quality (especially if they're made in China). And sometimes, it's hard to tell the difference.

Tang

The tang is the part of the knife blade that extends into the handle. Knives can be full tang (the steel extends throughout the handle), partial tang (the steel extends partway into the handle) or have no tang at all (usually cheap stamped knives). 

Tang tells you a bit about a knife's quality and construction: both full and partial tang knives are usually good quality, while knives with no tang tend to be cheap. This is because the tang adds strength as well as balance. Good German knives tend to have a full tang, while good Japanese knives tend to have a partial tang. The tang also adds weight, so this makes sense (Japanese knives have a reputation for being lighter than German knives). However, even cheap knives today can have a full tang, so like forged vs. stamped, tang isn't the measure of a great knife; it's only part of the equation.

The tang isn't always visible like it is in the photo above (all of the Imarku knives we tested are said to have a full tang, but it isn't visible). You can often tell if a knife has a full tang by how heavy the handle is. 

Hardness

Hardness of knife steel is measured by the Rockwell Scale. Units of measurement are HRC, which stands for "Hardness Rockwell C," with C being the scale used for knife steel (other Rockwell scales measure the hardness of other things). Sometimes it's written as HRc, with the "c" lower case. Knife steel hardness can vary from about 50 HRC, which is quite soft and is seen in cheap, low quality blades (like these Kiwi knives), to the mid-60s, which is very hard, typically seen in high-end Japanese steel that's had extensive heat treatment.

Good quality German knives usually have a hardness rating of about 56-58 HRC. This is hard enough to hold an edge for a fairly long time (hone before use!), but is also very durable and typically easy to sharpen. 

Japanese knives range from about 59-65 HRC. Harder blades hold an edge longer than most German knives, but steel gets more brittle as it gets harder, so it can chip if used incorrectly. These aren't the right knives for hard foods and bone because they can chip, and you have to be careful to not twist the blade or drag it across a cutting board. 

Heat Treatment and Tempering

Hot and cold temperature extremes alter steel structure, improving its strength and durability. Such treatment is usually the reason why cheap knives and expensive knives can be made of identical steel, yet the more expensive knife is harder (higher HRC), stays sharp longer, and is more durable. 

There are different methods of heat treatment and tempering, depending on what you want to achieve. It's a fairly complex topic, and we're not going to go into more detail here. There are many good websites about it, including this article on the Knife Steel Nerds site. 

Imarku does some tempering, but we're not sure if this is the case for all their knives or just the more expensive ones. Very inexpensive knives often have no heat treatment or tempering at all.

Cutting Angle

The cutting angle, also called the bevel, is the angle to which a blade is sharpened. 

German knives usually have a fairly wider cutting angle of 14-20 degrees on each side, for a total of 28-40 degrees inclusive. Japanese knives often--but not always--have a narrower cutting angle of 9-16 degrees (18-32 inclusive). (One exception is Shun, most of which have cutting angles of 16 degrees, or 32 degrees inclusive.)

Why is this important? A thicker cutting angle results in a more durable but heavier blade, while a thinner cutting angle feels sharper and allows for precision cuts, but is more fragile. Knives with thinner cutting angles also tend to be made out of harder steel, and the combination of thinness and hardness can result in chipping if you use the knife incorrectly.

You'll notice a difference when using knives with different cutting angles (thinner blades tend to be like driving a sports car, while thicker blades tend to feel like driving a tractor--and both have their place), but the angle is most important when it comes to sharpening. If you purchased an expensive knife, you should try to keep it sharpened to the factory angle, because there's a reason the knife was designed that way. 

With less expensive knives, keeping the cutting angle isn't as important, and in some cases you may want to change it deliberately. The two most inexpensive Imarku knives we tested have cutting angles of 20 degrees (40 degrees inclusive), which makes them feel a bit awkward and unwieldy. Changing the angle to 15 degrees would result in a better user experience.

Most automatic and pull-through knife sharpeners have a cutting angle of either 15 or 20 degrees. You want to avoid these if you have knives with thinner cutting angles. (For more on sharpening, see our article A Beginner's Guide to Knife Sharpeners.)

Sharpness

Out-of-the-box sharpness should be good, but if it isn't, this doesn't necessarily indicate a knife is poor quality. Any piece of steel can be sharpened to almost razor sharpness. The real test is how well a blade retains this sharpness. 

If a new knife is dull, returning it is a good option. But dull knives do sometimes get past quality control, so if you're proficient at sharpening, you may want to put an edge on it yourself before deciding if you want to return it. 

Knowing the type of steel and the heat treatment and tempering a blade has had is more important than its sharpness when new. These are both better indications of how long a blade will keep an edge.

But if you happen to get a new blade with a dull edge, there's no shame in returning it. After all, you shouldn't have to sharpen a blade befor eyou can use it.

Grind

Grind refers to how a blade tapers from the spine down to the cutting edge. Grind affects blade strength and how the knife cuts. Almost all kitchen knives have a flat grind. This is the easiest grind to sharpen and retain the shape. Most knife sharpeners, including whetstones, pull-through sharpeners, and guided rod sharpeners, create a flat grind. (Belt grinders create a hollow grind.) 

The grind isn't really important for choosing a knife, but it does come into play when you're sharpening, at least if you want to keep the same grind put on the knife at the factory.

Spine Taper

Spine taper is about how the spine thickness changes from the handle to the tip of the blade. Like grind, it isn't all that important in choosing a knife, but it's good to understand the terminology. The taper can affect a blade's strength (or lack of), as well as how it feels during use. So while it shouldn't make or break your decision to buy a knife or not, it's nice to know the basics: German chef knives tend to be 2-3mm thick at the handle and taper down to about a millimeter at the tip, while Japanese chef knives tend to be 2mm or less at the handle and can taper down to less than a millimeter at the tip. These rules vary for different kinds of knives, so cleavers and debas are quite thick, while filet and boning knives will not only be quite thin at the tip, but also flexible. 

Once again, German knives tend to be thicker, heavier, and more durable--but not always, as you can see in this photo of a deba knife above, which is Japanese, and thicker than any blade we've ever tested outside of a cleaver. Note also in that pic that the Wusthof (center) appears to have more of a taper than the Imarku chef knife (right), which is interesting: a "gyuto" should be thinner than a German chef knife, but in this case, it doesn't appear to be.

As more knives are being made with traits of both German and Japanese knives, not all Japanese chef knives are thinner than all German knives. If this is important to you, make sure you're getting what you want. The Imarkus are a good example of this, because some of the knives they're calling gyutos (Japanese chef knife) are as thick as a German blade (again, see the photo above). 

Handle Considerations

Here's what to think about knife handles when buying, with the most important feature being that the handle is comfortable. If the handle doesn't fit your hand well, nothing else will make the knife worth buying.

German (Western) or Japanese

Knife handles fall into two basic categories: German (Western) and Japanese (called "wa").

Western handles are typically contoured along the bottom for finger grip, flat on the sides, and riveted onto the tang.

Japanese wa handles can have several shapes: the most common are round, oval, octagonal, and D-shaped (made for right- or left-handed users--you can see a D-shaped knife above, in the Imarku deba review). They usually lack rivets, partly because Japanese chefs like to swap out handles on their favorite knives--if they were riveted, it wouldn't be possible to pull the blade out of the handle.

In general, Japanese handles are quite comfortable, and there's no right or wrong about which handle you prefer. Japanese handles are often smaller and narrower than German handles, but not always. Most Imarku handles have a Japanese shape, either oval or D-shaped, and they're as large as most German handles, and very comfortable. The only handle that might not work for you is a D-shape handle for a rightie and you are a leftie (or vice versa, but leftie D-shaped handles are usually special order).

Imarku also makes a rectangular handle shape (it's on the most expensive Imarku we tested) that is sort of German in design but without the finger contours on the bottom side. We really like this handle, as we liked all the Imarku handles, but it's definitely something you should try a few times before deciding it's right for you.

Material

Handles are made from several materials: wood,  soft plastic, hard plastic, and wood/synthetic composites (there are several kinds), and even stainless steel, which was popularized by Global in the late 1980s and now offered by nearly every large knife maker in the world.

Wood handles vary greatly, from cheap and soft to rare and high end. All wood handles have a warm feel and natural look most people like. However, wood is not the most durable handle type, and probably isn't the most popular handle type anymore because of it.

Plastics handles also vary quite a bit. Soft, cheap plastics are found on inexpensive knives (makes sense), and some can really feel cheap, even when they're fairly durable and offer excellent grip. Harder plastics, like the POM found on brands like Wusthof and Zwiling, are quite durable and very smooth; they're one of the best synthetic handles you'll find. They're highly resistant to heat and cold, and they last a long time.

Wood/synthetic composite handles come in several types, and most are excellent quality and provide excellent appearance and grip. Most of these synthetics are resin combined with layers of wood, paper, or linen. Resin handles are quite durable, usually waterproof, and have the look and feel of beautiful wood. They can be made in almost any color, too. Pakkawood, the material on Imarku handles, is a common knife handle material that's beautiful as well as durable, comfortable, and provides good grip. Most synthetic handles are also dishwasher safe, and while we recommend washing your knives by hand, it's nice to know you can toss one in the dishwasher once in awhile if you want to.

If your main concern is beauty or a natural feel, then wood is a good choice. If affordability is your primary concern, then plastic is the way to go. If you want durability as well as a natural look and feel, then a synthetic composite is the best option. Try a few different materials to see what you prefer.

Shape and Size

Shape and size are really about the type of handle and material, which we already discussed. As we said the most important feature of any handle is that it fits your hand. To summarize, it's good to try several brands, styles, and sizes if you're not sure what you want. 

We'll also say that most knife handles are comfortable, even if they're cheap plastic. You don't need to spend a fortune to get a great handle. However, more expensive handles do tend to be more durable, and more expensive knives in general tend to stay sharp for longer.

Knuckle Clearance

Knuckle clearance is the space (or lack of it) between your knuckles and the cutting board when the knife is on downstroke. If your knuckles bang against the cutting board, your knife blade is too narrow, or possibly, your handle is too wide. 

This is usually only a problem if you have very large hands, or if you try to use a knife for a purpose it is not intended for, such as a boning or fillet knife for a chef's knife.

Imarku chef's knives, gyutos, and santokus all have wide blades, so knuckle clearance shouldn't be an issue with any of them.

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Imarku Knives FAQ

Here are some commonly asked questions about Imarku knives.

Are Imarku Knives Good Quality?

Imarku knives are decent quality, but they are Chinese knives mostly branded as Japanese knives, and they are not Japanese knives. The steel they use is considered budget steel, and the fit and finish is mediocre, even on the most expensive Imarku we tested ($130). They compete well against knives in the $40-$60 range, but if you want to spend more than this, Imarku may not be the best choice. 

Where Are Imarku Knives Made?

Imarku says their knives are made mostly in Japan, with factories in China and even the United States. We think it's likely that Imarku knives are made in China, with some lines shipped to other countries for assembly. 

Is Imarku a Chinese Company?

Imarku has a main office in the USA, but their manufacturing facilities are in China and they use mostly Chinese steel, so yes, Imarku is considered a Chinese company.

Can You Put Imarku Knives in the Dishwasher?

Almost all Imarku knives are "dishwasher safe" but putting knives in the dishwasher is a bad idea because the detergent can dull both the handle and the blade. We recommend hand washing all your kitchen knives.

What Is the Cutting Angle of Imarku Knives?

The cutting angle of Imarku knives varies a lot, with some as thick as 20 degrees (40 degrees total), and some as thin as 9-12 degrees (18-24 degrees total). It really depends on the particular Imarku line.

Does Imarku Have Good Customer Service?

Imarku seems to have mediocre customer service. Some people were happy with it, while others complained that it was non-existent. 

What Is the Warranty on Imarku Knives?

Imarku offers a lifetime warranty on all of their knives and knife sets, as well as a 90 day, no-questions-asked return policy. How well they honor these policies seems to vary, with not all customers receiving satisfactory service.

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Final Thoughts

Imarku knives are generally considered a good value for the price, and we agree--for the most part. They're attractive, have sharp blades and comfortable handles, and are a good choice for anyone on a tight budget. The fit and finish is mediocre but this is what we expect at an "affordable" price point. 

We like the individual chef knives we tested, but we don't recommend the more expensive Imarku knives (more than about $50) or their large sets, which seem to be lower quality than the knives sold individually. 

Thanks for reading!

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